11 recipes
Historic Christmas Recipes
Christmas recipes from three Christmases on record: a bishop’s household in 1289, the Cratchits’ goose in A Christmas Carol, and the trenches in 1914.
Six centuries of Christmas food, from an account roll, a novel and the trenches. In 1289 the household roll of Richard de Swinfield, Bishop of Hereford, lists herring, eels and salmon for Christmas Eve, then beef, pork, a boar, partridges, geese and thirteen fat does coming in for Christmas Day. It is a list of supplies, not a menu, and some of the meat was kept back: What Did a Medieval Bishop Eat at Christmas?
In A Christmas Carol of 1843, Dickens gives the Cratchits roast goose with sage and onion, apple sauce, mashed potatoes and a flaming plum pudding, then chestnuts and hot gin. It is fiction, and the cookbooks of the 1850s and 1860s give the dishes: What Did the Cratchits Eat for Christmas Dinner? In the trenches in 1914, soldiers’ letters tell of cigarettes, cigars, rum, wine and cake crossing no man’s land, and by December 26 plum puddings too (What Did the Soldiers Share in the Christmas Truce of 1914?).
What Did a Medieval Bishop Eat at Christmas?

Pertrich Stewyde, Stewed Partridge (1430)
Medieval stewed partridge: whole birds stuffed with peppercorns and marrow, simmered in beef broth and red wine with cloves and mace, finished with saffron.

A Goos in Hogepotte, Goose Stewed with Ale (1430)
Medieval goose stew, a goos in hogepotte: goose simmered in pieces, thickened with dark toast, spices and ale, finished with fried onions and red wine.

Venysoun Rosted, Parboiled Roast Venison (1450)
Medieval roast venison, venysoun rosted: venison loin boiled for a few minutes, then roasted hot and served sliced with a sharp sauce of vinegar and salt.
What Did the Cratchits Eat for Christmas Dinner?

Roast Goose with Sage and Onion Stuffing (1861)
Isabella Beeton’s 1861 roast goose, stuffed with her mild sage and onion stuffing of parboiled onions and breadcrumbs, with a giblet gravy made ahead, for the goose at the Cratchits’ Christmas dinner.

Mashed Potatoes (1854)
Alexis Soyer’s mashed potatoes from his 1854 cookbook for working families, beaten light with two forks and a little butter and milk, as served with the Cratchits’ Christmas goose.

Apple Sauce for Goose (1861)
Isabella Beeton’s 1861 apple sauce for goose and pork: cooking apples boiled to a pulp with a little water, beaten with sugar to taste and a piece of butter.

Plum Pudding (1854)
Alexis Soyer’s 1854 Christmas plum pudding of raisins, currants, suet, sugar, peel, flour and crumbs, boiled four hours in a mold: a working family’s Christmas pudding, with flour in it like Mrs. Cratchit’s.
What Did the Soldiers Share in the Christmas Truce of 1914?

Christmas Plum Pudding (1861)
Isabella Beeton’s Christmas plum pudding of raisins, currants, peel, breadcrumbs, suet and eggs, with no sugar or flour, steamed in a basin. Brandy optional.

Lübeck Marzipan (1858)
Henriette Davidis’s Lübeck marzipan: almonds ground with orange flower water, stirred with sugar over low heat, rolled and cut into small soft white shapes.
More recipes

Mince Pies (1906)
Mrs Beeton’s mince pies from her 1906 Book of Household Management: suet, currant, raisin and apple mincemeat with candied peel and a little brandy, baked in puff pastry and dredged with sugar.

Plum Pudding with Rum (1868)
Jules Gouffé’s plum pudding with rum, 1868: suet, raisins, currants, candied peel, breadcrumbs and apple, mixed with rum, boiled four hours in a mold and flamed with warm rum at the table.