An oval scoop of very pale ivory-yellow ice cream in a footed pressed-glass dish on gray marble, beside a whole lemon.
Lemon ice cream beside a whole lemon.

Lemon Ice Cream (1844)

Thomas Masters’s lemon ice cream of 1844: cream, sugar rubbed with lemon peel and the juice of two lemons, mixed cold and frozen.

Recipe makes
About 1 quart, 10 small servings
Prep
Total

Mixing takes 15 minutes. Chill the mixture for at least an hour, churn it for 20 to 25 minutes, then give it about 2 hours in the freezer to firm.

Lemon ice cream beside a whole lemon.

The story behind the recipe

Lemon ice cream in Thomas Masters’s The Ice Book of 1844 takes its flavor from the peel as much as the juice. The book, the manual for his patent freezing machine, gives a pint of cream, two lemons and half a pound of sugar, and ends: “Mix; freeze. One quart.”

Rasped on sugar

The lemons are rasped on sugar and the sugar scraped “into the vessel you are about to mix in.” The juice goes in after it. Masters is careful with peel: in the orange ice cream printed just below, the fruit is rasped “slightly, lest the cream become bitter.”

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Nothing to cook

The mixture is never heated. Most of Masters’s cream ices are made this way, mixed cold and poured into the freezer, with only a few, such as the vanilla and the brown bread, stirred over the fire like a custard first. A cold mixture like this one could go straight into the inventor’s machine, with nothing to wait for but the freezing.

Making it today

We keep Masters’s quantities, a pint of cream to two lemons and half a pound of sugar. Grating the zest into the sugar does the work of the rasp. Whipping cream stands in for his cream, and a home ice-cream machine for his. Chill the mixture well first: modern recipes for this cold-mixed kind give it at least an hour in the fridge. The four-minute claim and what lay behind it are in How Did a Cook Make Ice Cream in Four Minutes in 1844?. The cooked ice cream from the same pages is the Brown-Bread Ice Cream (1844).

LEMON ICE CREAM.

Take one pint of cream; rasp two lemons on sugar; scrape off into the vessel you are about to mix in; squeeze them, and add the juice; half a pound of sugar. Mix; freeze. One quart.

Thomas MastersThe Ice Book (London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co., 1844), Lemon Ice Cream, p. 92

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Ingredients

For about 1 quart, 10 small servings. Quantities are shown as written.

Quantities as written here, for about 1 quart, 10 small servings.

  • Lemons2
  • Caster sugar8 oz
  • Whipping cream20 fl oz
Ingredients as written here
  • 2 lemons
  • 8 oz caster sugar
  • 20 fl oz whipping cream
Equipment
  • Fine grater
  • Mixing bowl
  • Citrus juicer
  • Ice-cream machine
  • Freezer container with a lid

Instructions

  1. Put the bowl of your ice-cream machine in the freezer the day before, if it needs it.

  2. Finely grate the zest of the lemons into the mixing bowl, taking only the yellow part. Add the caster sugar and rub the zest into it with your fingertips until the sugar is damp and pale yellow.

  3. Squeeze the lemons and stir the juice into the sugar.

  4. Pour in the whipping cream and stir until the sugar has dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes.

  5. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, until very cold.

  6. Churn in the ice-cream machine until it is thick, like soft-serve, 20 to 25 minutes.

  7. Serve at once, soft, or scrape it into the freezer container, cover and freeze for about 2 hours to firm.

Nutrition

290calories per serving

Recipe makes
About 1 quart, 10 small servings
Servings
10

Estimated per serving from USDA FoodData Central values for heavy whipping cream, sugar and lemon juice.

Recipe notes

When adjusting quantities

Masters’s own quantities, which he says make one quart. Scale the lemons with the cream.

Notes

Quantities mentioned in these notes don’t change when you adjust the servings.

Caster sugar is superfine sugar; it dissolves quickly in cold cream. Whipping cream is about 35 to 40 percent fat, the same as American heavy cream. If your lemons are small, add the juice of half a third lemon. Frozen hard, it needs about 10 minutes out of the freezer before scooping. Contains milk.

Recipe details

Course
Dessert
Dish family
Desserts & Sweets
Region
British
Era
19th century
Source decade
1840s
Main ingredient
Milk & creamFruit
Difficulty
Easy
Season
Summer