Two scoops of smooth pale tan tea ice cream in a small blue-and-white porcelain bowl on cream linen, beside a tiny dish of loose black tea leaves and a silver teaspoon.
Tea ice cream beside a dish of loose black tea.

Howqua’s-Tea Ice Cream (1844)

Howqua’s-tea ice cream from Thomas Masters’s Ice Book of 1844: cream and sugar mixed with a cup of strong black tea and frozen. Howqua was the Western name of a great Canton tea merchant.

Recipe makes
About 1 quart, 10 small servings
Prep
Cook
Total

Brewing the tea, dissolving the sugar and cooling take about 40 minutes. The mixture chills for at least 2 hours, churns for 20 to 25 minutes and firms in the freezer for about 2 hours.

Tea ice cream beside a dish of loose black tea.

The story behind the recipe

One of the shortest recipes in Thomas Masters’s Ice Book of 1844 carries its most curious name. Howqua’s-tea ice cream is a pint of cream, half a pound of sugar and “one ounce of tea, or a sufficient quantity to make one cup,” mixed and frozen.

Who Howqua was

Howqua was the name Western traders used for Wu Bingjian, the senior hong merchant at Canton, head of one of the licensed firms through which foreign ships did their business in China, and perhaps the richest man in China. He died in September 1843, the year before the book. Masters doesn’t say why the ice cream bears his name or which tea he meant.

Read more about this recipe

A cup of tea in the cream

The method is the same as Masters’s other cold-mixed cream ices: everything goes into the freezer together. Read one way, his ounce of tea is the amount to brew; read the other, it is whatever makes one cup. Either way, the tea goes in as a brewed cup, mixed into the cream. His coffee ice cream on the same page takes more trouble: six ounces of roasted beans steeped in scalding cream and milk, then thickened with arrowroot.

Making it today

We brew one strong cup from a third of an ounce of loose black tea, about three heaped teaspoons, steeped for 5 minutes and pressed through a strainer. Dissolve the sugar in the hot tea and let it cool before the cream goes in. The book names no blend, so any plain black tea will do. How Did a Cook Make Ice Cream in Four Minutes in 1844? describes the machine Masters built for ices like this. For a sharper ice from the same book, try the Strawberry Water Ice (1844).

HOWQUA’S-TEA ICE CREAM.

One pint of cream, half a pound of sugar, one ounce of tea, or a sufficient quantity to make one cup. Mix with the cream; freeze. One quart.

Thomas MastersThe Ice Book (London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co., 1844), Howqua’s-Tea Ice Cream, p. 96

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Ingredients

For about 1 quart, 10 small servings. Quantities are shown as written.

Quantities as written here, for about 1 quart, 10 small servings.

  • Loose black tea0.33 oz
  • Boiling water7 fl oz
  • Caster sugar8 oz
  • Whipping cream20 fl oz
Ingredients as written here
  • ⅓ oz loose black tea
  • 7 fl oz boiling water
  • 8 oz caster sugar
  • 20 fl oz whipping cream
Equipment
  • Kettle
  • Teapot or heatproof jug
  • Fine tea strainer
  • Mixing bowl
  • Ice-cream machine
  • Freezer container with a lid

Instructions

  1. If your machine has a bowl that must be frozen, freeze it overnight.

  2. Put the loose black tea in the teapot and pour on the boiling water. Let it brew for 5 minutes.

  3. Pour the tea through the strainer into the mixing bowl, pressing the leaves with a spoon to get all the liquid. Discard the leaves.

  4. Stir the caster sugar into the hot tea until it dissolves. Let it cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

  5. Stir in the whipping cream. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, until very cold.

  6. Churn until the ice cream holds a soft swirl; most machines take 20 to 25 minutes.

  7. Eat it straight from the churn, or pack it into the freezer container, cover it and give it about 2 hours in the freezer to set firm.

Nutrition

290calories per serving

Recipe makes
About 1 quart, 10 small servings
Servings
10

Estimated per serving from USDA FoodData Central values for heavy whipping cream and sugar; the tea adds almost nothing.

Recipe notes

When adjusting quantities

Masters’s own quantities, which he says make one quart. The tea is one strong cup; scale it with the cream.

Notes

Quantities mentioned in these notes don’t change when you adjust the servings.

Caster sugar is superfine sugar. For a milder ice cream, brew the tea for 3 minutes. The ice cream contains caffeine from the tea. Once frozen solid, leave it at room temperature for about 10 minutes before you scoop it. Contains milk.

Recipe details

Course
Dessert
Dish family
Desserts & Sweets
Region
British
Era
19th century
Source decade
1840s
Main ingredient
Milk & cream
Difficulty
Easy