Tamales de Dulce (1893)

Soak the corn husks in very hot water in the large bowl, held under with a plate, for 30 minutes or more, until they bend without cracking.

Stir two-thirds of the warm water into the masa harina and knead briefly to a soft, cohesive dough. Let it rest, covered, for 15 minutes.

Whip the lard with a mixer for about a minute, until pale and airy. Add the rested dough in handfuls, then trickle in the remaining water, and go on beating for 5 minutes or so: the masa should turn light and spread as easily as soft frosting. A stiff dough needs another spoonful of water.

Use her float test: a small ball dropped into the cup of cold water should rise to the top. When it sinks, beat for another 2 minutes and test again. Stop at about 10 minutes of beating whatever the test says; a masa that never floats only makes slightly heavier tamales.

Beat in the sugar until it disappears into the dough.

Mix the raisins with the cinnamon. Tear 2 of the husks into thin strips for ties.

For each tamale, set a husk smooth side up with its broad end nearest you. Spread a generous spoonful of masa across the broad half, about 4 inches long and 3 wide, keeping it clear of the edges. Line a few cinnamon raisins along the center, bring the long sides of the husk together so the dough wraps the raisins, turn up the pointed end and tie it with a strip of husk.

Fill the pot with water up to the bottom of the steamer basket. Stand the tamales in the basket on their folded ends, close together so they stay upright, lay the leftover husks over them, cover and bring the water to a boil.

Keep them steaming over medium heat for 60 to 75 minutes, topping up with boiling water as it boils away. They are done when the husk comes off the masa without sticking.

Let them stand off the heat for 10 minutes to set, then peel off the husks and eat the tamales warm.