
Chicken Marengo with Crayfish (1907)
Reader ratingsEscoffier’s 1907 chicken Marengo with crayfish: chicken sautéed in oil with white wine, tomato and mushrooms, garnished with croûtons, fried eggs and the crayfish.
- Recipe makes
- 1 chicken, serving 4
- Prep
- Cook
- Total
The court-bouillon for the crayfish simmers for an hour and can be made a day ahead; the chicken and garnish then take about 45 minutes.
Chicken Marengo with crayfish, deep-fried eggs and heart-shaped croûtons.
The story behind the recipe
In 1907 Auguste Escoffier was running the kitchens of the Carlton Hotel in London, and his A Guide to Modern Cookery came out in English that year. Its chicken Marengo, No. 1564, is sautéed in oil, sauced with white wine, tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms and truffle, and surrounded by the garnish of the legend: “heart-shaped croûtons, fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon.”
The hotel plate
The book marks some of its dishes as “originated at the Carlton Hotel.” Marengo is not one of them, and it was printed 107 years after the battle. Of our three versions, it is the one that carries the whole garnish of the legend.
Compared with Agnes Marshall’s 1890 version, it is lighter. There is no bacon, no sherry and no brown sauce. The wine and tomatoes reduce with the pan juices into a short sauce, and the garnish carries the dish. Our article Was Chicken Marengo Really Cooked on the Battlefield? follows that garnish from the kitchen into the legend.
Read more about this recipe
Making it today
No. 1564 leans on his general method for sautéed chicken, No. 1532. He gives no amount of wine for Marengo. We use a quarter pint, the amount he gives for Poulet sauté à l’Arlésienne, No. 1534.
The crayfish cook in his vinegar court-bouillon, No. 163, which he says is used “for various shell-fish.” In French kitchens, “trussed” crayfish have the tips of their claws hooked into the tail, so they sit neatly on the dish. Frozen whole cooked crawfish, sold in many fish departments, only need warming through. The truffle is his and optional.
1564—POULET SAUTÉ MARENGO
Sauté the chicken in oil. Swill the sautépan with white wine; add two peeled and concassed tomatoes, or one and one-half tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, a mite of crushed garlic, ten small mushrooms, and ten slices of truffle.
Dish the chicken; cover it with sauce and garnish; surround it with heart-shaped croûtons, fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of concassed parsley.
Recipe makes: 1 chicken, serving 4
Ingredients
For 1 chicken, serving 4. Quantities are shown as written.
Quantities as written here, for 1 chicken, serving 4.
Court-bouillon for the crayfish
- Water2 UK quart
- White wine vinegar4 fl oz
- Coarse gray sea salt0.75 oz
- Carrots5 oz
- Onions6.5 oz
- Parsley stalks0.75 oz
- Thyme1 sprig
- Bay leaf1/2
- Black peppercorns2 tsp
- Live crayfish8or Cooked crawfish8
Chicken
- Chicken , cut into eight pieces1Author measures: about 3 lb.
- Salt3/4 tsp
- Black pepper1/4 tsp
- Olive oil4 tbsp
Sauce
- Dry white wine5 fl oz
- Medium tomatoes2
- Small clove garlic1
- Small button mushrooms10
- Thin slices black truffle (optional)10
Garnish
- White bread, about 1/2 inch thick4 slices
- Butter2 oz
- Olive oil for the eggs5 fl oz
- Small eggs4
- Chopped parsley1 tbsp
Measurement notes
Ingredients as written here
- 2 qt water
- 4 fl oz white wine vinegar
- 0.75 oz coarse gray sea salt
- 5 oz carrots
- 6.5 oz onions
- 0.75 oz parsley stalks
- 1 sprig thyme
- ½ bay leaf
- 2 tsp black peppercorns
- 8 live crayfish, or 8 whole cooked crawfish
- 1 chicken (about 3 lb), cut into eight pieces
- 0.75 tsp salt
- 0.25 tsp black pepper
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 5 fl oz dry white wine
- 2 medium tomatoes
- 1 small clove garlic
- 10 small button mushrooms
- 10 thin slices black truffle (optional)
- 4 slices white bread, about ½ inch thick
- 2 oz butter
- 5 fl oz olive oil for the eggs
- 4 small eggs
- 1 tbsp chopped parsley
Equipment
- Large ovenproof sauté pan with a lid
Large saucepan
Fine sieve- Small frying pan or omelet pan
Wooden spoon
Instant-read thermometer- Warm serving dish
Instructions
Make the court-bouillon. Put the water, white wine vinegar and coarse gray sea salt in a large saucepan. Slice the carrots and onions thinly and add them, with the parsley stalks, thyme and bay leaf tied in a bunch. Bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour, adding the black peppercorns for the last 12 minutes only. Strain and return to the pan.
If using live crayfish, chill them in the freezer for 20 minutes first. Bring the court-bouillon to a full boil, drop in the crayfish and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until bright red all over. If using cooked crawfish, warm them in the simmering court-bouillon for 2 to 3 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and keep them in the warm liquid.
Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Season the chicken pieces with the salt and black pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat until hot, add the chicken and brown it quickly all over, turning the pieces so they color evenly.
Cover the pan and put it in the oven. When the thickest part of the breast reaches 165°F (74°C), after 10 to 15 minutes, take out the breast and wing pieces and keep them warm. Return the pan for 8 to 10 minutes more, until the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165°F (74°C). Lift out the legs and keep them warm with the rest.
Pour off the fat from the pan. Set the pan over medium heat, add the white wine and scrape up the browned juices from the bottom. Boil until reduced by half.
Peel, seed and chop the tomatoes. Crush the garlic. Add both to the pan with the mushrooms and the truffle, if using, and simmer for about 8 minutes, until the tomatoes have softened into a short sauce. Taste for seasoning.
Return the chicken to the pan, legs first, then the breast and wings. Spoon the sauce over and keep warm over low heat without letting it boil.
Meanwhile, cut the bread into heart shapes. Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat and fry the croûtons until golden on both sides. Drain on paper.
Fry the eggs one at a time, as Escoffier does. Heat the olive oil for the eggs in a small frying pan until it just begins to smoke. Break an egg onto a saucer, season it lightly and slide it into the oil. With a wooden spoon, quickly fold the set white over the yolk. After about 1 minute, when the white is crisp and golden, lift it out and drain it. Repeat with the rest.
Lift the crayfish from the court-bouillon and hook the tips of their claws into the tail.
Pile the chicken in a warm dish and spoon the sauce and garnish over it. Surround it with the croûtons, fried eggs and crayfish, and sprinkle with the parsley.
Nutrition
840calories per serving
- Recipe makes
- 1 chicken, serving 4
- Servings
- 4
Estimated per serving (4) from USDA FoodData Central values for the listed ingredients, leaving out the court-bouillon and the fat poured from the pan.
Recipe notes
When adjusting quantities
Scales by the chicken. Escoffier’s garnish of ten mushrooms and ten slices of truffle is for one chicken; allow one egg and two crayfish per person.
Notes
Quantities mentioned in these notes don’t change when you adjust the servings.
The oil for the eggs is very hot: use a small, deep pan, keep it at the back of the stove and keep children away. Escoffier fries each egg so the white wraps the yolk and keeps it soft. For young children, older people, pregnant people or anyone with a weakened immune system, use pasteurized eggs or fry them until the yolk is set.
Live crayfish are sold in season by fishmongers and online; cooked crawfish should be bought whole and kept frozen until needed. Cook live shellfish until the shells are red and the meat is opaque.
To compare the earliest version, cook Chicken à la Marengo (1868) alongside this one.
Scaling changes the ingredients only; pan sizes and cooking times need their own judgment. To adapt this recipe further, try the recipe tool at TuneMyRecipe (opens in a new tab), our sister site.
Sources and attribution
After A. Escoffier, A Guide to Modern Cookery (London: Heinemann, 1907), Nos. 163, 483, 1532 and 1564
Recipe details
- Course
- Main course
- Dish family
- Meat & Poultry
- Region
- French
- Era
- Edwardian
- Source decade
- 1900s
- Main ingredient
- Poultry & game birdsShellfish
- Difficulty
- Advanced
- Occasion
- Dinner party


